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I’ve also been on the trad. First up I went to Harris with Masa, Chris and Nat. We had been a bit early and it was baltic. I tried to climb anyway and on at some point the place it was slightly less windy and cold, I did a superb two pitch E7 on Creag Mo known as The Mighty Chondria. The primary pitch takes the same 35 foot horizontal roof I climbed further proper on The Realm (E8) some years in the past, this time by way of a big crack with lots of kneebarring and undercutting madness. That pitch is a fantastic 7c+ wrestle. Pitch two felt like a grade VIII winter route, and not just because it was nearly cold sufficient to me blended climbing. It was a extremely conventional pitch, with some drips, some chimneying, some great rock, some turf and some darkness at the end. Masa followed me in the dark and we abbed off into the blackness below.
Nonetheless, the following day circumstances were perfect. I knew I had a chance to take, so I had to calm myself down a bit and take my time to wait until the sun was going off the cliff within the afternoon. After arranging the gear I reversed again to the belay to ditch some of the rack ballast and generally sort myself out. Although I used to be a little bit nervous about slamming into the wall beneath the roof ought to I fall, the circumstances were simply too good not to go for it with whole commitment. As I arrange for the crux slap, the holds felt unbelievably grippy and I knew I used to be going to do it. After one other airy hanging belay the final E5 6b pitch was a complete pleasure to guide. We shouldered our packs and headed off to village bay to sleep and look forward to the journey house.